As a Swedish watch specialist and editor, one of the most common questions I get is “What should I buy for my first premium watch?” Many people have a list of iconic pieces in mind but feel uncertain about the large investment. Although this is a personal decision, I have compiled a list of things that may help you make the right choice about which timepiece to begin your collection.


To most people I have spoken with, versatility is the most important aspect. You should choose a watch that can be worn casually or in the office. It should look great with a blue pair of jeans and a cashmere sweater.

The semi-formal watches, such as the Portugieser, are a great example. These watches are classic in design, with a simple dial and a robust case. A black alligator strap makes this watch a great choice for a boardroom or weekend companion. These watches also have interchangeable straps, which is a great feature. The original black strap is the best choice. However, you can also choose a lighter brown calf or suede strap to change the look of your watch and have almost two watches in one.


The next important thing to think about when choosing between watches is the style. How do you describe your life? Although many watches are versatile, not everyone needs a watch that matches their suit. You may need a watch that is more durable if you are active and want to wear it in all aspects of your daily life. A watch with a greater water resistance or shock resistance will allow you to swim and exercise safely. A diver watch, a metal bracelet or tropic strap would be a good choice for someone like this. These options are more resistant to water than leather and alligator straps. The Aquatimer or Ingenieur are two great examples.

I would suggest a more delicate and refined timepiece if you prefer a more formal style and wear a suit every day. The Portofino is a beautiful dress watch that can be worn under your shirt’s collar.


The size and fit of your wrist is as important as the model. Every person has a different opinion on how a watch should fit. You are the only person who should be listening to your own perspective. A watch that fits comfortably and doesn’t extend beyond the wrist is my preference. Every wrist is different. You might be surprised at how different the watch feels from the official measurements.

A dress watch may be more comfortable if it is smaller and lighter than a sporty one. However, you can argue that larger watches are better for practical reasons. The Big Pilot, for example, was originally designed for pilots. It had to be large to accommodate the pocket watch movement as well as to provide visibility in dark cockpits. This design has become synonymous with the Big Pilot, and I personally believe it is one of the most iconic models you should wear.

You may also find beautiful watches from the Pilot collection that are smaller in size. Some people may not feel comfortable wearing a +44mm watch. However, I love the Pilot 36 with its beautiful brushed bracelet. It is the perfect combination of sporty and elegant. Even for a smaller wrist, it is a great watch. There is a watch that suits every person and every wrist. It is about finding the one that is right for you.

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